The Story of Silver Niello

Silver Niello Technique

Niello is a mixture of sulphur, copper, silver and lead that's used to create an inlay on etched metal. It is fired as a powder or paste and is pushed into the engraved lines in the metal where it blackens as it cools. After the excess is polished off, the dark black fills contrast with the shinier metal surrounding it. Although niello is fired onto the metal, over time it can separate from the metal, leaving the etched metal visible below it.

Niello Jewelry

Much of the Niello work that's available today was mass-produced in Thailand between 1950 and 1980, when Niello jewelry was in demand. You'll also find Victorian Niello jewelry for sale online. There are very few jewelers working in niello today, but you may be able to commission niello work from your local jeweler.

The History of Niello

The history of Niello goes back thousands of years to ancient Persia, Rome and early Great Britain. The earliest niello work dates to 1800 B.C. but the work is disputed. Greek daggers in 1550 B.C. display niello work and the technique became popular in Roman metalwork from 1 to 300 A.D. The Romans brought the technique to Britain, where it was taught widely and often adorned religious icons and reliquaries.

Niello experienced a resurgence in the Rennaissance period, especially in Italy and France and its craftsman often doubled as printmakers, because the etching techniques used in niello lent themselves well to intaglio and other printmaking techniques.

Making Niello

This procedure outlines a simple and reliable method for creating niello.

Materials:

Metals:
- Silver (2 parts)
- Copper (1 part)
- Lead (1 part)
Flux:
- Borax
- Ammonium chloride
Sulfur Powder
Crucibles:
- Conventional crucible (for initial alloy melting)
- Tall, narrow crucible (for sulfur saturation)
Steel or Carbon Rod
Steel Ladle
Fume Hood with Active Ventilation
Mortar and Pestle
Water

Procedure:

Prepare the Silver-Copper Alloy:

In a conventional crucible, melt together 2 parts silver and 1 part copper.
Add a small amount of borax as a flux.
Maintain the molten state of this alloy.

Prepare the Sulfur-Lead Mixture:

In a steel ladle, melt the lead.
Important: Work under a fume hood with active ventilation.
Gradually add sulfur powder to the molten lead while stirring vigorously.
Continue adding sulfur until it appears to be no longer absorbed.
Caution: This process generates noxious fumes.

Combine and Saturate:

Pour the sulfur-lead mixture into the molten silver-copper alloy.
Stir thoroughly with a steel or carbon rod to ensure complete mixing.
Pour the resulting mixture into the preheated tall, narrow crucible.
Stir continuously to maintain fluidity and further saturate the alloy with sulfur.

Granulate and Grind:

Pour the molten niello into a container of water to granulate it.
Grind the granulated niello in a mortar and pestle.
Add a flux paste (made by dissolving ammonium chloride in hot water) to the grinding process.

Alternative: Casting:

Optionally, cast the molten niello into a sheet or wire ingot mold to create a solid bar for direct application to the work.

Testing the Niello:

Strike a piece of the niello with a hammer.
- A high-quality niello will shatter like glass and exhibit a uniformly black fracture surface.
If the niello fails this test, remelt it using more sulfur and stirring more thoroughly.

Explanation:

This recipe utilizes the differing affinities of silver, copper, and lead to sulfur.
The resulting niello consists of a complex mixture of these metals and their sulfides.
The low melting point of the silver-copper alloy facilitates the niello-making process.

Safety Precautions:

Always work under a fume hood with active ventilation when handling sulfur.
Wear appropriate safety gear, including gloves and eye protection.

Applying the Niello to the metal surface

Pack the niello paste into the etching with a fine brush and pack it as firmly as possible with a kinfe or spatula. The niello should be mounded up higher than the surface because it will shrink when melted. Dry it under a lamp or near a heater. Water on the surface will cause problems when firing, so dry it completely before firing.

An electric kiln is the preferred method of firing a niello. The piece can be laid on a tile or firebrick, as needed. Ammonium chloride will emerge from the niello as it fires, giving it a white appearance. At 930°F, the niello glows red, melts and fills the etched areas. Now you can cool the piece to room temperature.

If the niello did not fill the etched areas, you can apply more and repeat the firing. After you are happy with the fill, you will polish the surface gently to bring out the color contrasts by removing the excess compound. Polishing too hard may result in damage to the niello, so it's best to take your time on this process, until the metal areas shine and the niello appears solid black.